SCULPTING YOUR BEAR'S PERSONALITY

 

You can add so much personality to your bears by adding just a few stitches here and there. You can sculpt any part of your bear to add depth, wrinkles, dimples, etc. The most common parts to sculpt are the face, hands and feet. Here are a few tips and techniques to follow:

 

Stuffing

The first thing to consider when you intend to finish your bear with sculpting, is how you stuff the bear. You need to stuff softly enough so that when you pull on your sculpting threads, there will be enough give to allow you to sculpt. On the other hand, you don't want it stuffed too softly or have gaps in the stuffing that will give you wrinkles in the fabric when you pull. Stuff so that the part to be sculpted is easily depressed.

 

Thread

Although artists' opinions will differ, I prefer to use upholstery thread (Mastex) that matches the fabric when I sculpt an area where I donπt want the sculpting thread to show (like adding character to the face). Mastex is high quality, very strong and doesn't get caught up in the stuffing.

 

If I want the thread to show, like making claws or accenting paw pads, I prefer to use pearl cotton yarn. It comes in an array of beautiful colors that compliment the fabric and is also strong enough to withstand sculpting. The size of the pearl cotton that you use depends on the size of the bear. Generally, I use size 3 for larger bears (over 14 inches), size 5 for bears from 7 inches to 13 inches, size 8 for 3 inch to 6 inch bears and size 12 for bears under 3 inches.

 

No Knots

When you are sculpting, you are pulling up tight on the thread and to indent, mold and shape the fabric around the stuffing. If you knot your thread and anchor it to the fabric, pulling up will make an indentation at the knot. In order to have no knots showing on the outside follow these steps to lock the thread: Insert the needle (with un-knotted thread) into the bear and come out on the other side (at any point). Push the needle back in at the same point you just came out and push it through to the other side, coming out at another point. Again, push the needle back into the same hole you just came out of. Repeat this process, going back and forth through the bear until the thread is secure (will not come loose when you pull up on it). Finally, bring the thread out at the point you want to begin your sculpting.

 

Indenting Eye Sockets

Setting the eyes deeply into their sockets is a common sculpting technique used by most artists to add realism to the bear's face. Most artists accomplish this by simply pulling the eye in tightly. You can accentuate this effect and ease on the stress on the eye wire by sculpting a bit prior to inserting your eyes. Either secure your upholstery thread with a knot at one eye point or by using the "knotless" method above. Push the needle into the head close to the eye point and come out at the back of the head either directly behind the ear or at the bottom of the neck just above the disc. Put your needle back in about 1/8" away from where you came out and bring the needle back out close to the eye hole. Go back in a bit over from where you came out and bring your thread to the back of the ear (or neck) again. Pull up on the thread while pushing in on the eye socket with your finger to indent the eye. Repeat this process two or three times to get the depth you want. Once your eye socket is indented, insert your eyes like usual.

 

Indenting Eye Sockets around Safety Eyes

If you are using safety eyes that need to be inserted prior to stuffing the bear, you can indent the eye socket and sink the safety eyes by sculpting around them as shown in these diagrams. First, lock your thread into the top of the head. Once your thread is secure, come out close to the top of one of the eyes. Go back in about 1/16 to 1/8" away and come out at the bottom of the back of the head at the opposite side.

Go back in the same hole and come out close to the bottom of the same eye. Again, go back in about 1/16" to 1/8" away and come out the same back corner. Pull up on the thread while pushing your thumb in on the eye. (This eases the stress on the threads at the eyepoint.) If you want your eye set in deeper, go back in the same hole and come out close to the same eye at a different point and repeat the process until your eye is sunk to the point you like it.

Once you are satisfied with your eye socket, lock the thread the same way you did before. Run the thread back and forth through the head several times until it is secure. Cut the thread close to the backing and let the end sink under the fabric.

 

 

Accentuating the Bridge of the Nose

Secure your thread inside the head using the "no knots" method shown above. Come out just below the gusset seam line on the bridge of the nose just below the eye spot. Push your needle in again about 1/16" away toward the tip of the nose and come out on the other side of the bridge of the nose directly across from where you just came out. Push your needle in again about 1/16" away toward the tip of the nose and come out on the other side of the bridge of the nose a bit closer to the bridge of the nose. Push your needle in again about 1/16" away toward the tip of the nose and come out on the other side of the bridge of the nose directly across from where you just came out. Push your needle in again about 1/16" away toward the tip of the nose and come out on the other side of the bridge of the nose a bit closer to the bridge of the nose. When you have made several sculpting stitches down the bridge of the nose toward the tip of the nose, squeeze the bridge of the nose together with your fingers as you pull up on your stitches. This will raise and narrow the bridge of the nose. You can create this effect all the way down the nose or just in the center to give the tip of the nose a larger more bulbous look. When you are satisfied with way it looks, bring your thread out the back of the head and secure it as you did in the beginning.

Sculpted Paw Pads

Mark your paw pads with small dots at the top and bottom of each claw line. Do this on all paw pads prior to stitching, because once one is sculpted, it will be hard to tell where the original marks were to match the other pad. You can make as many claw lines as you like. For this example I'll use four. Secure your thread with the ≥knotless≤ method above and bring your thread out at the top of the first claw line. Push your needle into the ultrasuede/felt side of the paw at the bottom of the first claw line and come out at the top of the second. Push in on the paw pad and pull up on the thread to indent the claw. While still pushing in on the pad, go in at the bottom of the second and out at the top of the third. Push in, pull up the thread and go in at the bottom of the third and out at the top of the fourth. Push in, pull up the thread and go in at the bottom of the fourth and out the back (fur side) of the paw. You may choose to finish at this point by securing your thread or further sculpt your paws by adding bottom lines and pulling up to make the pads more short and puffy.

 

If you want more sculpted puffy pads, push your needle back into the same hole (on the furry side) and come out at the bottom of the third claw line. Go in at the bottom of the second. Go out the back of the paw (on the furry side), push the pad in with your fingers and pull up on the thread. Go back into the same hole. Come out the bottom of the fourth claw line and go in the bottom of the third. Go out the back of the paw (on the furry side), push the pad in with your fingers and pull up on the thread. and back into the same hole. Come out the bottom of the second and in the bottom of the first and out the back of the paw (on the furry side). Push the pad in with your fingers and pull up on the thread and secure your thread.

 

These are just a few basic sculpting methods that are commonly used. Use your imagination and try sculpting cheeks, jowls, eyebrows, wrinkles, bags under the eyes, knuckles, a belly button, ears etc. The possibilities are endless! Be creative and have fun..remember there are no rules!